Jewish Livorno

The Synagogue of LivornoThere has been a considerable Jewish community in Livorno since the 17th century and at one time it represented 10% of the population. At a time when the persecution of Jews was taking place elsewhere, Livorno represented a haven where people of the Jewish faith could practice their religion freely, build their own synagogue, buy property and, most unusually, did not have to live in a ghetto. All this because of Ferdinando I de’ Medici’s invitation to Jews to come and settle in Livorno where he realised they could be beneficial to the development of this newly established town. The conditions he offered proved attractive: in 1601 there were 114 Jews living in Livorno and by 1689 there were 3000.

 View of the Jewish Cemetery in Viale Ippolito Nievo, LivornoAn increasing number of highly skilled Jewish merchants and entrepreneurs  settled in Livorno, specialising mainly in textile and glass manufacturing,  as well as in the working of coral , sugar refining, tobacco and paper production , and the distillation of spirits. In the 19th century most of the books in the Mediterranean area were printed in Livorno and the most famous printers were Jewish, like the Sadun and Belforte families. The synagogue that was built during the 17th century was one of the finest and well-known in Europe. Sadly, it was destroyed during WWII and was replaced by a modern synagogue in the 1960s.
Famous Jews from Livorno include artists Amedeo Modigliani, Vittorio Corcos, Ulvi Liegi, and the writer Guido Bedarida who died in 1962.

Visiting Jewish Livorno
The Synagogue in Piazza Benamozegh can be visited by appointment, so be sure to arrange this before you arrive in Livorno. The modern building was designed by Angel Di Castro and contains a beautiful 17th-century Haron which was given to Livorno by the synagogue in Pesaro. 
To see the old furnishings from Livorno’s original 17th-century synagogue you need to go to the Yeshivà Marini museum in Via Micali (also by appointment only). The exhibits include a noteworthy wooden hekhàl, works of embroidery and objects made from coral.
There is also a very interesting Jewish cemetery in Viale Ippolito Nievo which dates from 1840.
Works by the Jewish artists living in Livorno in the 19th-20th centuries can be seen at the Fattori Gallery housed in Villa Mimbelli. Modigliani’s birthplace, on the other hand, is at the beginning of Via Roma, just near Piazza Attias, and can be visited by appointment.
The Central Market of Livorno contains stalls where Kosher produce can be bought.

Practical Information:

Synagogue of Livorno, Piazza Benamozegh 1(between Via Grande and Via Cairoli). Tel. +(39) 0586 896290, email: comunitaebraica.livorno@gmail.com 

Yeshivà Marini museum, Via Micali 21. For appointments contact Gilda at Amaranta Service: amarantaservice@virgilio.it 

Modigliani's Birthplace: contact Gilda at Amaranta Service: amarantaservice@virglilio.it

Jewish Cemetery in Viale Ippolito Nievo

Where to eat near the Synagogue: Pizza in Piazza, La Vecchia Senese (both closed on Sundays)

Kosher food in Livorno: Doctor Kebab, Panificio Lo Giudice (bakery)

If you would like a personalised sightseeing itinerary, please contact me