Lari

The old town walls of LariJust 32 km, or 20 miles, from Livorno, Lari is one of a rare breed of Tuscan villages that has maintained its authentic village way of life. Although geographically located in the province of Pisa, it is actually equidistant from both Livorno and Pisa, and is famous above all for its annual cherry festival - the Sagra della Cigliegia - in May, when thousands flood this tiny castle-topped town.

In March there is no sign of a cherry anywhere, and the village is tranquillity itself on a beautiful sunny  Wednesday morning.

Unfortunately I chose the wrong day to be visiting the Martelli pasta factory, one of tSpaghetti drying at the Martelli pasta factoryhe village’s main attractions, as Wednesday is the day they clean their machinery. On any other working day it is possible to see the machines at work, producing the dried pasta that has become widely known, even enthused about by British icon chef Delia Smith. These demonstrations are free, and visitors are welcomed by the Martelli family.

View from LariLari’s most prominent feature, however, is its castle - Castello dei Vicari - which dates from the 10th century and which can be visited on winter afternoons and all day at weekends and in summer.  The views across Tuscany to the Apennine mountains and all around are stunning, and you get a feel for what it must have been like to rule the medieval roost. Fierce battles took place here between the Pisans and the Florentines in the 14th and 15th centuries, and in the end the village was finally conquered by the Florentines who put it under the control of the Vicari.
Just round the bend, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and San Leonardo has undergone many reworkings over the centuries, most recently in 1910 when it was given a Gothic Revival feel.  It contains a glazed terracotta Madonna and child by Andrea della Robbia.

Old cafè front in Lari, Province of PisaSpending time in Lari is like slipping back in time. The people here have all they need for everyday life – two cafés – one of which has remained unaltered for 130 years - , a restaurant, a church, a theatre, and a pasta factory on their doorstep. A baker’ s and a butcher’s supply day-to-day provisions. Just 20 miles in each direction they have the services of the cities of Pisa and Livorno, but you get the feeling that they don’t often feel the need to make the short trip to either of these urban centres. Life in Lari goes on with or without the rest of the world, or so it seems.

How to get to Lari: from Livorno , hire a car. Take the FI-PI-LI road towards Florence, leaving at the Lavoria exit. Follow signs for Cenaia, turn left at the big roundabout (with the Oasi del Verde garden centre on the right) and then head for Lari castello. The drive takes about 45 minutes. You can park in the village (or just outside if you are coming in the high season or on a Sunday).