Saturday 7th July 2007
the Mascagni Youth BandIn a way, this event summed up what Livorno is all about. The setting, for a start, was Piazza Cavallotti, by day the city’s brilliantly colourful and lively fruit and vegetable market and a focus of daily life for local people. And in 1863, in a building on the square, now replaced with an ugly modern construction that houses a bank, the famous Livornese composer, Pietro Mascagni, was born. Mascagni is known to everyone in Livorno, and his name is immortalised in the city’s handsome terrace overlooking the sea (Terrazza Mascagni) and in the music school, ‘La Mascagni’.

It was no coincidence that the band playing in the square last night was made up of young, and a few not so young musicians from the Mascagni music school and the Livorno city band.  The occasion was the eve of the annual Palio Marinaro, the most important rowing race in Livorno’s season of rowing events which numbers a total of five races contested between the city’s ten historical districts. The race takes place in front of the Terrazza Mascagni – so it all came together, the venue, the band and the occasion all linked in some way to Livorno’s composer, Pietro Mascagni.

A huge frying pan for fish and chipsBut nothing would really be complete in this town of culinary traditions without something to whet the appetite! On one side of Piazza Cavallotti Livorno’s market traders had set up a huge frying pan where throughout the evening they dished out fried fish and chips to the concert audience. A plastic dish of freshly fried seafood served with chips and a choice of white wine or water to drink, all for €7 (proceeds are to go to charity).

An informal atmosphereThe fish and chips were supposed to be consumed standing up, but those who got there early helped themselves to a few chairs stacked up in front of the stage, waiting to be lined up for the concert. “No worries”, said one of the men helping to put them out, “you’ll save us a job!” The few dozen people eating their fish, sitting in groups around the square in the approaching darkness, soon struck up conversations with each other. That’s what people do in Livorno. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly, informal to extremes. When the musicians arrived on stage, people moved their chairs into a higgledy line and carried on chatting. No-one minded the late start.

An Enthusiastic AudienceThe band, conducted by French horn player Claudio Parrini, gave an admirable performance. From gospel music to Frank Sinatra, Ennio Morricone and of course Pietro Mascagni, their music enlivened an area of town usually unfrequented on Saturday nights. The audience was small but enthusiastic. In many ways it was the ‘perfect’ Livornese event  - a popular setting, in the heart of the city, a tribute to Mascagni, fish to eat and all on the eve of the most traditional of Livorno’s maritime races. It marked the beginning of what should become a yearly tradition in the run up to the Palio Marinaro.