Detail of the Quattro Mori monument, one of the Four MoorsOne of the main thoroughfares in Buontalenti’s 17th-century city, the Via Grande is now one of Livorno’s principal shopping streets. It runs directly eastwards from the old port of Livorno, through Piazza Grande and then on to Piazza della Repubblica. The modern, rather dreary porticoes date from the post-war period, but they offer shade, and shelter from rain while shopping!

The Four Moors - a symbol of Livorno- Beginning at the port end, before you even start down Via Grande you cannot fail to notice the statue standing at the entrance to the Port and known as I Quattro Mori (‘the four moors’) which is undoubtedly Livorno’s most famous landmark. The monument, which is a symbol of Livorno, was carried out in two stages. The upper part, portraying Ferdinando I, the Medici Grand Duke, was sculpted in marble by Giovanni Bandini by order of Ferdinando’s son, Cosimo II, to honour his father. It was erected in 1617, nine years after Grand Duke Ferdinando’s death.

The four bronze moors were added between 1623 and 1626 and are the work of the Carrara sculptor, Pietro Tacca, who was Giambologna’s greatest pupil. He used two slaves as a model for his work and it is said that in return for posing for several months these two men were then set free.
The younger of the two moved to Florence and started a family there. On holidays he used to bring his family to Livorno so that they could admire his bronze likeness!
The whole monument is supposed to represent Tuscany’s victories over pirate attacks.

plaque commemorating Sir Robert Dudley, Duke of NorthumberlandBehind the Quattro Mori are the remains of the old city bastions, now part of the Gran Duca hotel. The plaque on the wall commemorates the English naval engineer, Sir Robert Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, who played an important part in the development of the port of Livorno.

Just a few yards into the Via Grande are two 17th-century fountains, one on either side of the road. ThOne of the Pietro Tacca fountains in Via Grande, Livornoese were ordered by Cosimo II to decorate the statue of the four moors. However, when Pietro Tacca completed them in 1629, Ferdinando II (who had by then succeeded his father) liked them so much that he decided to have them taken to Florence (in fact the originals stand in Piazza Santissima Annunziata in Florence). The ones here in Livorno are copies, one donated by Florence and the other funded by Livorno itself.

Piazza GrandePiazza Grande The original ‘grand’ square really was a huge open space in the centre of Livorno uninterrupted by the ugly modern building that now stands opposite the cathedral. Surrounded by marble porticoes designed by the architect Alessandro Pieroni, it represented the centre of the The original porticoes in Piazza GrandeMedici city of Livorno and stretched as far as the town hall (il Comune). The bombings of 1943 caused extensive damage to Livorno, and the only original part of the square is the portico on the north-east side.

Duomo (Piazza Grande) Livorno’s original cathedral was designed by Alessandro Pieroni and built by Cantagallina. It was completed in 1606, dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. Sadly, the original building was completely destroyed by bombings in 1943. The modern-day reconstruction was completed in 1952 and is a reproduction of the original. The interior contains some interesting early 17th-century paintings by a number of well-known Tuscan artists: the Triumph of Saint Giulia by Jacopo Ligozzi; the Assumption of the Virgin by Domenico Cresti da Passignano, and Saint Francis of Assisi by Jacopo Chimenti da Empoli.

The Duomo of Livorno in Piazza GrandeThe cathedral of Livorno originally had six bells which were cast in Prato in 1823. After the war only five of these were found, all of them badly damaged, so they were melted down and re-cast, together with another old bell, to make six new ones.

Facade of the Church of Santa Giulia, tucked away between the Cathedral and the marketChurch of Santa Giulia - Patron Saint of Livorno (Via Santa Giulia) Right next the the Duomo (on the left when facing the cathedral), this small church is dedicated to the patron saint of Livorno (feast day 22 May). It was built in 1606 after the land was ceded to the Livornese by Grand Duke Ferdinando I. Three years later a small cemetery and an oratory were built at the rear of the church, of which only the oratory now remains. This is known as the Cappella di San Ranieri (St Ranier’s chapel). Much of the church’s original decoration was lost in the war, but the ceiling was rebuilt in the original style. The church contains a number of the Saint’s relics, donated to Ferdinand’s wife by the bishop of Brescia in 1606. Under the floor are buried nine Knights of the Order of Saint Stephen. The beautiful altar piece depicting Santa Giulia is attributed to Giotto’s school.

Piazza Cavallotti market stallVia Santa Giulia, on which the church of Santa Giulia stands, leads into the bustling open air fruit and vegetable market in Piazza Cavallotti. The market is held every morning from Monday to Saturday and is a great place to absorb the local atmosphere and to see all the stalls piled with colourful seasonal produce, much of it grown locally. It was in one of the buildings on Piazza Cavallotti (now replaced by the modern building occupied by a bank) that the composer Pietro Mascagni was born in 1863. Close by, Via Coroncina was the birthplace of Giovanni Fattori the well-known Macchiaoli artist.

Just north of here, along Via Buontalenti, is another of Livorno's outdoor markets selling mainly clothes, shoes and household linen, and across the road Livorno’s magnificent covered food market (see Mercato Centrale).

Back in Piazza Grande, across the square, along the original portico and behind the modern building that stands opposite the Duomo (the one housing the well-known fast-food restaurant), you come into the Piazza del Municipio.

Palazzo Comunale, the town hall of LivornoIn front of you stand three large buildings, all different in style. On the far left is the loggia-fronted Palazzo della Dogana, or Custom’s House, now home to the Chamber of Commerce of Livorno. It was built in 1648 by Annibale Cecchi. In the middle stands the modern municipal building, and next to that the Palazzo Comunale, or Town Hall, built in 1720 to a design by Giovanni del Fantasia. It was later almostly completely rebuilt after a serious earthquake in 1742, and it was then that the exterior double staircase was added by Antonio Fabbri.

The area that lies behind the town hall of Livorno is known as the Nuova Venezia district and is the historic quarter of Livorno

Proceeding again from Piazza Grande, about a hundred metres further along on the left-hand side is Via della Madonna. This small street is home to three of the churches originally used by members of the different foreign communities living in Livorno in the 17th and 18th centuries:

Façade of the old Armenian ChurchArmenian church (Church of San Gregorio Illuminatore) (Via della Madonna) - The Armenian community was already quite numerous in the early 17th century and became well-integrated with the local community. The facade of their church is the most tangible remaining testimony of their presence in the city, while the actual church has been turned into a cultural centre. The church was built by Giovanni del Fantasia and financed by a group of Armenian merchants.

The old Greek United Church in Via della MadonnaGreek United church (also known as the Santissima Annunziata) (Via della Madonna) tel. 0586 887718 - This church dates back to 1605 and bears witness, along with the other churches in this street, to the multi-cultural society that lived in Livorno in the 17th century. It was designed by Alessandro Pieroni and has a handsome Baroque facade in marble.

Chiesa della Madonna Tel. 0586 889495 Just a few metres away from the Greek church, this church contains altars dedicated to various foreign communities as well as a statue of the Madonna del Carmine. It was designed by Alessandro Pieroni and built in 1598.